Arc'teryx Alpha IS Jacket

We'll dive into the nitty gritty below. If you'd like to read our reviews of other Arc' products, have a look at: the Arcteryx Sphene (an award winner),  Arc’teryx Theta SV Pants, the Kamski 48 Pack, the Beta FL jacket, the Atom LT jacket, the Lithic Comp pant and jacket and the Zeta LT. 

Here's a little video from Arc'teryx that shows the fit and styling.  

And then, there's little ol' me. The hood is synchable at the back and with two Cohaesive pull tabs at the front.

Side-view. Though it's helmet-compatible, the adjustment allows for a dialed fit. Note that I'm not wearing a helmet here.

Unlike many Arc'teryx hardshells, the Alpha IS features elasticized cuffs which work best with gauntlet-style gloves (like the Alpha SV gauntlet gloves I am sporting in the pic at top). This may be in part due to the jacket's intended ice climbing usage. 

More climbing features here. The zip from the bottom and button allow the jacket to be worn with a harness. Even without a harness, it's a handy feature for heat regulation.

There's a big dump pocket on one inside side. It's not really large enough to accommodate a pair of skins when touring but, to me, the Alpha IS is more of a stay dry and warm when at rest jacket. It works for me lift-served but it's too hot on the uptrack.

The Gore-tex outer fabric is entirely waterproof—like, stay-out-in-the-rain waterproof. They've done away with zipper garages and the like on the Alpha IS, just simple watertight zips that look like they were pulled off a dry suit.

Who doesn't love a good Napoleon pocket? Certainly not Arc'teryx.  

• N40p-X 2L GORE-TEX®
• Coreloft™ Continuous 65 (65g/m²)
• ThermaTek™ DWR treated synthetic insulation

• Taped seams for added weatherproofness
• Additional layer of Coreloft™ Continuous 65 insulation for additional warmth
• Highly hydrophobic DWR treated ThermaTek™ synthetic insulation
• Generous cut for easy layering
• Articulated patterning for unrestricted mobility
• e3D Ergonomic 3-Dimensional patterning for enhanced comfort and mobility
• Gusseted underarms for mobility and comfort
• Helmet compatible StormHood™ with custom Cohaesvie™ cordlock adjusters
• WaterTight™ external zippers
• Full length Vislon No Slip Zip™ front zipper
• Drop back hem
• Adjustable hem drawcord
• Cohaesive™ hem adjusters function as Hemlock™ to prevent jacket from slipping out from under a climbing harness
• Chest pocket with zip
• Two insulated hand pockets with zippers
• Internal dump pocket
• Stuff sack included

Wow. Just wow. The Alpha IS is an ideal jacket for lift service days, is compressible enough that it works in your pack as a warm and weatherproof layer and it is perfect for hitting bars in town early and late winter when you aren't sure what to expect for the walk home (just don't leave it alone at your table).

We have had the pleasure of reviewing multiple Arc'teryx jackets over the last decade but this is definitely one of our faves. The initial claim in Arc'teryx marketing material was that this jacket would do away with the need for a mid-layer. After having run the piece for a while, I agree—for lift service shredding, but not for touring in the BC interior.  I have found it too warm in our comparatively temperate climate.

As usual, the fit is bang-on. I like jackets on the snug side (rather than gangsta/baggy) so the medium works perfect for my skinny 6' 2"  on a 175lb frame. It's designed for alpine, ice and expedition climbing That may explain its remarkable weather-proofness, elasticized cuffs and lack of pit zips. 

A quick word about Thermateck, the insulation that make it all happen. I'm not sure what the magical mojo is in this fabric, but it rarely if ever gets wet. When it does, it dries super fast. Thank you.

The only hurdle with this jacket is the price tag. At $1,200 it's tough to justify for all but the most gear committed. What can I say..? Save you shekels or ask that rich uncle to leave you one in his will. This jacket is niiiiiice.