Short Film on Controversial First Ascent of TengkangpocheA short film, narrated by climber Tom Livingstone, documents the first ascent of the northeast pillar of Tengkangpoche (6487m) in Nepal in the Fall of 2021. In it, the award-winning climber also addresses the controversy surrounding the achievement that he shares with climbing partner Matt Glenn.
In 2019, Canadian Quentin Roberts and Finnish climber Juho Knuuttila climbed higher on Tengkangpoche than anyone had to date, but they turned around due to a lack of ice. Roberts returned in the Spring of 2021 with American climber Jesse Huey, but they were sandbagged by bad weather and poor conditions. They left a lot of gear behind as they intended on returning to complete the climb later in the year. It’s this stash of food, fuel, and climbing gear that Livingstone and Glenn helped themselves to in order to help them complete their first ascent. Livingstone apologized to Quentin and Knuuttila, but many in the climbing community question the ethics and decorum of using the equipment without permission. What do you think? Check out the full article in Gripped.