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    • Must do Climb: Mount Temple

    BACKCOUNTRY NEWS AND FORUMS

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    Must do Climb: Mount Temple

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      2021-09-18 16:25:16

      Must do Climb: Mount Temple

      If you are looking for ways to get those ski legs in shape in time for ski season then consider climbing Mount Temple in Lake Louise Alberta. This 3,543m / 11,621ft peak is a moderate scramble and provides stunning views of the Rockies and an aerial view of Moraine Lake. The climb will take you between 7-12 hours depending upon your fitness level and covers 16km and 1,690m / 5,543ft of elevation gain from the trailhead to the summit.

      The trailhead is found at Moraine Lake which is a very popular tourist destination just up the road from Lake Louise. If you are looking to secure a parking spot in summer (the best time to climb the route) you better get there before 7:00 am as it fills up fast and once full the only other way to access the trailhead is by taking the shuttle bus. We arrived at the parking lot at 5:30 am and were surprised to see almost 50 cars already there awaiting the sunrise over the lake.

      You will want to ensure you bring along hiking poles as the route is steep and they will come in handy for stabilization and saving your legs for the long climb. Sturdy hiking boots and a climbing helmet are also mandatory due to the hazard of rockfall and scree along the route. You will also want to bring a copy of the route brochure put out by Parks Canada, a cell phone, first aid kit, food, sunglasses, rain shell, toque, gloves, and a down jacket since it is almost always cold at the top. If there is any snow along the route then consider an ice axe and crampons, less experienced climbers will need a rope and harness, as well as most of the upper route is exposed and more technical in nature. This is not a climb for hikers who have never climbed on scree or are not used to exposure. Mount Temple is for strong climbers who are comfortable scrambling and route finding. It is easy to get off route, cliffed out and in unnecessary danger due to the technical nature of this climb. 

      Mount Temple

      You can see the full route on our Garmin Connect page here along with all the details of our ascent. We had beautiful clear albeit smokey skies and calm winds the day we climbed but we still chose to leave the trailhead at 5:30 am in order to beat the convective cloud that inevitably builds midday in the mountains.

      Mount Temple

      The first part of the hike is an easy climb on a moderately ascending trail through the woods along the shores of Moraine Lake. You quickly leave the hordes of tourists behind as you ascend the thirteen switchbacks and climb 325m and 2.5km. You quickly break into the sub-alpine of Larch Valley where you can enjoy unobstructed views of surrounding peaks and Sentinal Pass in the distance. As the steep switchbacks of Sentinal Pass come into view you will be able to see the entire route to the summit ridge of Mount Temple, although it looks steep, rocky and daunting it is not as hard as it looks from a distance so don’t turn around—your confidence will be buoyed once you arrive at Sentinal Pass and get a closer look at the technical section of the route.

      Mount TempleMount Temple

      Most hikers will call Sentinel Pass their final destination and turn around to Moraine Lake after taking in the views. You will carry on up a well-worn path amongst the boulders and loose scree. Be on the lookout for cairns or even flagging tape dotting the route up the face as there are many options since trail braiding is plentiful and the best route is often hard to find. As you approach a very thin and pointy spire along the route’s ridgeline you will have made it the halfway point, yes, you are only halfway to the top and there is still plenty more elevation to put behind you before you will be at the summit.  Three Rock bands will need to be navigated with the second being considered the crux of the route since it has lage steps with some fourth class climbing moves required and of course exposure. While this is not an overly technical piece of climbing you may want to consider the security of a short rope for belaying down as some people do find this too much for their ability.

      Mount Temple

      As you ascend the route be sure to look back at what you climbed and make note of features to remember on the way down as it can all look the same, especially if clouds roll in and obstruct your views. After the light brown rock step, you will arrive at the summit ridge where the climbing becomes more straightforward but it is still a long way to the summit. Since it is now in sight your spirits should be elevated to continue to the top.

      Mount Temple

      Once at the top enjoy the splendour of your efforts and take in the summit views but be aware that you are only 1/2 way through the climb and the hardest part still lay ahead. Due to the technical nature of this route, you will not save any time on the descent until you reach Sentinal Pass. Be sure not to take any shortcuts on the way down and be super cautious of anyone below you as rockfall is a serious issue on the descent.

      Mount Temple

      Pick your climbing partners wisely for this route as experience is required before attempting Temple and ensure you do your research as several accidents happen each year on route and you don’t want to become one of them.

      Enjoy and have fun, it’s a worthy objective.


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