A week of generally wet and unsettled weather has left the Rocky and Interior mountains in a bit of a soggy state. Last weekend’s nasty upslope storm coated the eastern slopes in snow, and then the mid-week rains soaked the western areas, leaving 10-15 cm of snow right down to treeline. Rivers are rising as we hit June, and the real spring melt and runoff should be going full bore anytime now. Just need to add some heat.

Good conditions for alpine climbing or high elevation glacier skiing require a freeze, which typically means a cold and clear night. Clouds and rain prevent the snowpack from freezing, and in areas with less than 1 meter of snow - expect some wet post holing. This is probably the case near glacier toes right now, so start to be on the watch for hidden crevasses in these areas where the snow is shallow and wet. A deep and more supportive snowpack remains above 2800 m, and if you happen to be lucky enough to catch a good freeze . . . conditions could be awesome.

The eastern regions (Yamnuska, Ghost River) got coated in snow last weekend right down to treeline. Although its melting slowly, and the sun exposed cliffs are clear - expect snow to linger in shady areas and on backside descents. The cliffs themselves have lots of wet streaks, so pick a sunny day and stick to routes on open faces - rather then chimneys and gullies that are bound to have water running down them. 

Low elevation sport climbing will be good if it ever gets warm, and both Saturday and Sunday look to pretty good. Temperatures should be about the same in BC and in Alberta this weekend. Just keep an eye on the water levels when you’re in a canyon - flash flooding is common this time of year. Keep your gear on the high ground, and expect wet feet when boulder hopping home.

The forecast remains unsettled for Friday, when a brief clearing should give a bit of sun for the weekend with highs of 14 degrees - not awesome, but considering the recent few weeks - an improvement. Following that it looks like more poor weather on the way for early next week.

So, its June and the mountains are going to shed alot of material this month: winter snowpack, cornices, rocks, and high water. Keep a close eye on the forecast, time your missions to catch the good conditions and bail when things get sloppy.

Grant Statham
ACMG Mountain Guide

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