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The Chic Choc Mountains are found in the centre of the Gaspé Peninsula in Eastern Quebec, about a ten-hour drive from Montreal. As backcountry skiing gains in popularity, the massive population of cities in Quebec, Ontario and New England are discovering once hidden gems like the Chic Chocs. Fans of Tuckerman Ravine in New Hampshire describe it as “a bunch of Tuckermans, all lined up, one next to the other.” With an injection of provincial funding—as well as the realization by locals and visitors that the region offers amazing backcountry skiing—more and more backcountry outfitters are popping up.
Mont Jacques Cartier is the highest peak at 1,268 m but there are actually 25 peaks over 1,000 m. This similar elevation has to do with the region’s remarkable topography; most of the peaks are actually wide open plateaus, “cut-off” at similar elevations. This feature, coupled with a healthy dose of alpine and clear-day views of le fleuve (the St. Lawrence River), makes for a sublime, and totally top-notch, backcountry experience. The local culture is like nothing else in North America and excellent touring is to be had January - May throughout the Chic Chocs (on a good year).
If you are looking for accommodations in the area then be sure to check out the Chic-Chac which offers up Single, Double, Triple, or Quad accommodations. The Chic-Chac is a hostel that caters to skiers and snowboarders while providing great terrain accessibility along with a vibe that makes you feel like your in your element. You’ll get affordable accommodations and some of the best food at a ski operation, as well as expert advice on what the area has to offer. Amenities include showers, wi-fi, kitchen, game room and of course an outdoor hot tub.
The Owners name is Guillaume Mollaison and he is always present. He’ll take your reservations directly and help pick out your options for your stay. The options are almost limitless, from basic stay and tour on your own, guided touring, snowmobile access, cat skiing, and heli access as well. The Chic-Chac also offers Rentals, Avalanche courses and Rescue courses. You can contact them at 418-784-3311 or www.chic-chac.ca. They are located at 609 7th Street, Murdochville, Quebec.
There is a full-blown avalanche forecasting program and website called Centre d’avalanche that lives here. Though the site is available en français seulement the email bulletins are available in English also. We are just beginning to accumulate routes for you here. Stay tuned for more!
ROUTES:
1. Murdochville
2. Mount Lyall
3. Vallieres-De-Saint-Real
4. Hogs Back
5. Mines Madelaine
6. Mt. Albert
7. Champs De Mars
8. Mont Blanche Lamontange
9. Black Tooth
10. North Bowls
We want to hear about your adventures in the Chic-Choc area so don’t forget to post a trip report in the backcountryskiingcanada.com forums. If you have a new route in the area you want to share, mouse-on over here. N-Joy.
All routes listed here provided by David Martin. If we have missed anything please let us know?
Backcountry skiing is an inherently dangerous activity that requires experience and knowledge to travel safely. Any of the routes on this site may be dangerous depending on conditions. You are responsible for your own safety in the backcounty—the team behind backcountryskiingcanada.com disclaim any responsibility for any injury resulting from people travelling on routes described on this site. To read our Terms of Use and get all the details, read HERE.
Murdochville is an old Copper Mine, located on Route 198 South on the Coast the St. Lawrence River. It’s a 60km drive North of the Parc De La Gaspesie and The Chic-Chocs Eco Reserve.
The interesting thing about Murdochville is that no one knows about it, unless they are local. Murdochville sits at 650m or so, which is higher than the elevation in the Parc, and it SNOWS MORE! There is a small ski hill at Mt. Miller where the only lift is a T-bar used to access the whole mountain and is only open on weekends. Murdoch doesn’t have much, a small grocery store, a gas station, and the Chic-Chac which is a sostel dedicated to skiers and boarders in the winter months.
The first thing one will notice about Murdoch is the amount of snow that drops here. You can look at the weather forecast for the region multiply precipitation by 2 and add 10cm for good measure. It’s not unusual to find front doors completely buried as well as traffic signs. This large amount of snow is due to a weather phenomenon called the ‘Noreaster’. Basically the Gulf Stream pushes up the East Coast of the U.S. and meets the Arctic fronts pushing all the moisture over the St. Lawrence and dropping it on Murdochville before hitting the Parc. It’s not unusual to get 1m overnight here. View the map here.
Getting There:
Take Route 132 East along the St. Lawrence and pass St. Anne Des Monts, turn South on Route 198 and continue to Murdochville. Check road conditions because this Road is often closed during weather and is known to avalanche.
Another option during bad weather is to turn right at Tim Horton s in St. Anne and go through the Parc. Continue to the Parc limit on the Eastern extremity and turn left on Route Du Lac St. Anne and continue North 45 minutes or so to Murdochville.
Ridge approach:
1.5km 250m vertical...easy up track which offers a mellow sightseeing tour on the way up (because there no trees on this face) and is best for clear days and low winds. A small abandoned hut at the summit is great for a snack and to get out of the wind. This route is easily climbed within an hour.
SouthEast face offers open lines in the 30 degree-ish range, and is a fun start on a clear day. You will see an up track running perpendicular to the ridge line from the road for a swift return to the summit.
From the Hut you can also follow a snowmobile track running North along the summit, many tree runs are cleared down to the road, each one has a different character. Mind the fact that a snowmobile trail also marks the switchback just before the road which gives you another up track option.
Switchback approach:
This one is 2 km and is also easily completed in about an hour depending on your fitness level. This route is a snowmobile track so stay to the right and expect a sled to go by once in a while. The advantage with this route up is you’re protected from the wind in case of stormy conditions.
The tree runs in this area tend to be fairly open, and mellow. If you want to know what the mountain has to offer, head right, or North 400m or so to the North Summit. This area is nicknamed the Daltons and there are tree runs cut nice and tight on a 40 degree slope. Options are excellent, steep, nice little cliff band and your best bet for the most snow. There is also a shortcut in the form of a steeper up track which joins the top of the switchback approach and cuts off a lot of time provided you have the experience to navigate and the fitness to indulge.
Ski back to your car, or to town at the end of a great day!
(*Inside info: Get an early start to your day and you just may have the mountain to yourself for a few hours. The buzz starts at 09:00 or so.)
ROUTE: Mont Porphyre
ACCESS: Mont Porphyre is on the West side of Route 198, directly across from the ski hill. You have the option of parking your vehicle on the side of the road and skinning directly from you car or ski touring from town and taking the Ridge approach from the Southeast.
MAP: 022A13 Lac Madelaine
TIME: 1.5 hrs
ELEVATION GAIN: 220m/722'
ATES RATING: Simple (1)
Lyall is pretty much a classic in the area and has the advantage of not being within the Parc therefore the routes can be worked on during the summer and includes modules built into the runs to give it a backcountry snow park concept. Mont Lyall is bigger and steeper than Porphyr and it’s protected from prevailing winds. It also has plenty of trees to keep the snow stacked in there.
The first approach is a bit of a slog and there tends to be a lot of people so get there early. The Heli flies at 09:00 so if you want to get snaked after a long slog then start early.
Lyall has everything you could ask for as far as tree lines go, the options are endless. Catch the skin track from the parking lot and take the shoulder up on the first run, this is the long part. Once you’ve done your first descent there is a skin track which works its way to the left and then cutting right across the face up the knuckle (top right in the picture). It’s a 2 hour first approach and then an hour or so on the skin track for subsequent laps.
The Advanced skier or boarder will appreciate what this mountain has to offer, especially after a big dump. It’s all at 40 degree-ish with some nice cliff drops so yo u should be a solid skier/boarder. View a map of the area here.
ROUTE: Mont Lyall
ACCESS: From Murdoch, turn left (North) as if to go to Mt. Porphyre and keep going until a pronounced curve in the road and a left turnoff at Route Du Lac St. Anne. You will be going in the direction of New Richmond and indications for the park are marked. Continue southwest until Lac St. Anne where there is a distinguishable loss in elevation and a very pronounced curve in the road and a car park on the left between 45 mins - 1 hour. It’s hard to miss but If you do miss it the entrance to the parc is on the right of the fork 2km or so up the road/ So if you see the entrance to the park, you've overshot.
MAP: 022b16 Mont Albert Parc De La Gaspesie
TIME: 2.5 hrs
ELEVATION GAIN: 540m/1,800'
ATES RATING: Challenging (2)
Vallieres-De-Saint-Real is one of the largest objectives in the Area. It’s reasonably close to the road, however it is a long approach. The Vallieres is one mountain, 8 peaks and various ridges above tree line, offering descents
of all kinds. The main issue here is wind, and it s a gamble on what your going to get in reference to which area of the mountain you choose to explore. Be prepared for a long day, and Please Do your homework. If your Navigation skills are so-so, do not pick this area you will pay the price! It’s not recommend skiing this area until February at least when optimal conditions prevail.
The various areas to ski are North Belt, The Quickie and Creek Bed all described below:
North Belt: Access is an old logging road which makes its way around the mountain to the North, the entrance is in the bend of the road. This constitutes the quickest ascent to the Sterling Peak, however certain sections are difficult and keep in mind that you will be exposed to the wind. Use the ridge to Summit Sterling peak and go from there. Distance is approximately 3km.
The Quickie: Park on the road at the trail entrance, skin past the hydro lines and up the Platinum Peak. This approach is the most direct to access the Summit Ridge and is less exposed. It’s straight forward access is shielded from the wind until you hit the ridge line, then the party starts. Distance is 1.7km.
The Creek bed: This is the usual exit route but can also be used as an access route. The creek used to be an old prospector road which leads directly to the Southeast facing bowls to the rear of the mountain. This also happens to be where the best skiing is. The advantage of this route as an approach is that although it’s longer, it has little or no elevation gain so it s an easy skin in the woods to the base of the bowls. It’s recommended to access the base of the Bowls and set up camp creekside and then track up the bowl. Next morning, climb to the ridge and drop in on the adjacent bowl. This saves time and you get more vertical and skiing than simply a day trip.
ROUTE: Vallieres-De-Saint-Real
ACCESS: The Mountain is located just across from Mt. Lyall on Chemin du Lac St. Anne. Park your car along the road for the day just before the large turn in the road that descends to the Lyall Parking lot. For easy reference there is a hydro line 100m up from the road with 2 trails accessing from the road, and another in the turn.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: Full Day
ELEVATION GAIN: 500m/1,640'
ATES RATING: Challenging (2)
The Creek bed: This is the usual exit route but can also be used as an access route. The creek used to be an old prospector road which leads directly to the Southeast facing bowls to the rear of the mountain. This also happens to be where the best skiing is. The advantage of this route as an approach is that although it’s longer, it has little or no elevation gain so it s an easy skin in the woods to the base of the bowls. It’s recommended to access the base of the Bowls and set up camp creekside and then track up the bowl. Next morning, climb to the ridge and drop in on the adjacent bowl. This saves time and you get more vertical and skiing than simply a day trip.
Hogs Back is the Classic right of passage in the Chic-Chocs due to its accessibility being in close proximity to the road. It’s also a popular location because people don’t want a long slog to get their lines. That said, get out there early if you want freshies.
Hogs Back is a large Convex roll with treeline to Alpine terrain. The East side of the Mountain tends to hold more snow due to prevailing winds and the terrain is steeper on this side as well. Basic landmarks on the mountain are fairly obvious, the road runs perpendicular to your descent and there is a large hydro electric line running parallel to the road that brings you back to the parking lot at the south tip of the mountain.
The uptrack starts at the parking lot and inevitably crosses the hydro lines, here you have the option to continue along the cow trail to the west and catch the trail on the right, which is a direct line to the summit or continue straight and take an easier yet longer route around the back of the mountain. the former is recommend as it’s quicker to the ridge however, this approach is often windswept and gets a little icy due to thermal activity. There is also a cornice along this ridge, but easy to negotiate.
If time is a factor, or if you want to snake people to first tracks (Wink, wink!) take a right directly under the Hydro lines and continue until you notice a veer in the lines, take the first trail on the left and cut directly up to the ridge, this route is steeper and more demanding, but will allow you to cut a good 15 minutes off your time to the summit.
The route options down are as follows:
North Couloir: With a 330m descent and a northeast exposure the skiing is often quite good. From the North Summit push due North to enter the Couloir 50m below the ridge. Due to lack of tree cover and anchors this puppy can get a little sketchy so use your brain and check your snow!
Grand Couloir: This is a Chic-Chocs classic with multiple entries. It’s a 400m descent with an East bearing.
C shaped snowfield: This is named appropriately since it’s basically a large C shaped snowfield as seen from the road. It is short, mellow and straightforward from the saddle.
Secret Field: Also known as “Not So Secret” since it gets tracked out quickly. From the South Summit drop in East and traverse fall line to the North, poke through the trees and Bingo! Ski right down to the road.
All the other lines below the ridge are short but fun nonetheless, however be careful of the cornice exposure above.
The exit route from the South Summit is to ski backside of the ridge and cut into the woods, skiers right. It’s a gladed ski out which leads to the hydro lines and trail junction and ultimately the parking lot.
ROUTE: Hogs Back
ACCESS: Access is located 4km NE of the Lyall Parking. Hang a right on Route 299 at the junction into the Parc, it’s well indicated. Parking is located on the West side of the road.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: Full Day
ELEVATION GAIN: 430m/1,410'
ATES RATING: Simple (1) to Challenging (2)
More serious Skiers and riders will definitely want to visit this area with five objectives in the range of 200m to 500m vertical gain. This is a prime destination as it snows heavily and most of the objectives are 1000m+ when you take into account the approach. There is a ski operation running in this sector, called Ski Chic-Chocs. For about $400 you can go cat skiing for the day should you wish. There is also a refuge available through SEPAQ, which includes a baggage drop, but reserve at least 1 year in advance if you hope to get a spot. The more enthusiastic ski tourer will not mind the 12km approach to the refuge with an approximate 600m vertical gain which makes for a long day. Keep in mind that camping is not permitted in the Parcs area.
Some elevations to take note of:
Refuge: 800m
Mt. De La Table 1,180m
Summit Croc Noir: 1,060m
Summit Petit Mt. St. Anne: 1,147m
Summit Xalibu: 1,140m
Ski route options:
The uptrack uses DGT and an old mining road, however you will have to backtrack a ways and contour up the ridge on your left when looking up the bowl from the refuge. An extension of this also accesses the lookers right side of the Bowl as well.
Front Door Bowl is steeper and rated complex, it’s accessed by the Birch Trail, a steep direct track through a birch forest it’s quite steep and exposed. Follow the ridge up and drop in skiers left. Front Door Bowl is home to classics routes as: Freak, Super Freak, Rocket, and Shaft. The North orientations dictate wind affected terrain.
Eagle Bowl: Is located on the Southwest Face of Mt. De La Table (1180m) and is quite an engaging destination, steep, lots of rocky outcrops, chutes and couloirs. This are usually provides better skiing in springtime and offers such classics as Musketeer’s Couloir which is wide but includes a 3m icefall in the last 1/3 of the run and Eagle Couloir which is a rather narrow and steep Couloir that will get your heart pumping for sure.
Xalibu Bowl: This Objective is Gnarly! and far at 3km from the refuge. It’s also not particularly forgiving, but It’s worth skiing for it’s alpine zone and it’s Couloirs. Once you get out there, your pretty much on your own. Access to the top portion is not authorized, however two routes are possible by the ridges on either side of the Bowl, you will need to traverse rock bands to access the Couloirs or you can opt to use the usual boot pack straight up the Couloirs, conditions permitting of course. Notable runs include: X-Xalibur which contains 3 couloirs on the North face (much like Eagle Couloir) and Couloir of Legends, also North face lookers right. This objective is a serious endeavour on it’s own so please be equipped for consequence. You’ll need climbing gear and the expertise to use it properly.
ROUTE: Mines Madelaine
ACCESS: Park your car at the hotel in town and ski tour along route 299 to the junction of route 14 (which is closed in winter). Continue skinning up 12km to the Refuge which is relatively easy since it’s tracked out by the BV-206 and snowmobiles daily. Once at the refuge, you will need to sit down with your map and figure out which objective you want to get to as there are shorter and longer objectives.
MAP: 022b16 (also 022g01, 022h04, 022a13) Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: Full Day
ELEVATION GAIN: 1,000m+/3,280'+
ATES RATING: TBD
Mt. Albert is the 2nd highest mountain in the Chic-Chocs and is definitely hard to miss so be prepared to see a lot of people, not necessarily skiing or riding. This is also a Caribou conservation and breeding ground, this means a lot of it is restricted access and parc rules are enforced because everybody goes up there. The Snowpack is also often very sketchy as winds are a huge factor.
There are two areas for ski touring, South Bowl and Patroller s Wall, with objectives from very engaging to mellow and accessible. Patroller’s Wall is a steep face and a particularly active avalanche slope with cornices, couloirs and cliffs.
To access the area take the trailhead and go 5km to the Serpentine Refuge once there you are at the base of Patroller’s Wall which has two uptracks. The more traditional route is to continue past the refuge for 1km to the shoulder and skin up the shoulder, you will likely have to boot pack the last portion. For the Elevator Shaft uptrack take the trail from the Refuge to the base of the wall, go around the Knob on your right side and look up the wall, the shaft is between 2 rock bands. A quick and direct approach, but more exposed. Be careful as it’s a 400m Vertical gain.
There are several descent options and the ones near the shoulder are more forgiving, the further you go skier’s left the more engaged the descent. Pay attention to the Parc rules here and where you are not permitted to ski as it may land you a fine if you are not careful, also watch for the cornice.
For South Bowl continue past the refuge and Patrollers Shoulder following a creek bed 4km to South Bowl. As you pass the Shoulder keep in mind the exposure on your left. Once at the base of the bowl, scope your uptrack and assess your terrain choices. The terrain is typical Bowl skiing, but it goes big when it does.
ROUTE: Mt. Albert
ACCESS: The parking is called Ruisseau Isabelle, located on the Western side of Route 299, 8km from the Discovery Centre and also 8km from Route Du Lac St. Anne.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: Full Day
ELEVATION GAIN: 553m/1,814'
ATES RATING: Challenging (2)
Although the initial approach (2km) is mellow and a little boring, good navigation skills and Intuition while help you discover various shortcuts that cut a lot of time off your ascent. At the same time, the up track is the exit route so you can get your bearings for the exit as you go up. One disadvantage of this ski tour is that it’s very popular so there is a distinct possibility that you will see a lot of people with the same idea as you plus, snowshoers. An easy remedy for this is t get out there early and track it out before the tourists get there.
The terrain is rolling and typically only 20 to 30 degrees, gladed and deep because of the tree protection. There are 3 main descents on the South East face and the Exit run on the South West. At the base of the South East face the loop cuts back up to the main uptrack and shortens your ascent time to about 25 minutes, so you can lap three runs and take the exit back to the parking lot before noon.
On the Exit, take a SW bearing through the Glades above the Uptrack and you will notice people tend to stay on the left side of the Glades. Keep your eyes right, there are 5 subtle entrances through some evergreens that open into 5 fingers that are seldom touched and run down to the parking lot.
Once your at the summit, look around as there are some several good terrain options a short skin away. Go explore as it can be worthwhile, but be advised that if your navigation skills suck don’t push it. There is a creek running along Route 299 and it’s not really crossable in winter.
ROUTE: Champs De Mars
ACCESS: The Parking lot is on Eastern side of the Road, 6.8 Km past the Lyall parking lot or 9.5 km from the Gite coming from the West.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: 1hr
ELEVATION GAIN: 365m/1,197'
ATES RATING: TBD
This tour is a hit or miss and wind events will dictate your options but it can be epic if there is a storm bearing South East, or low wind after a storm. The Access is rather long, approx. 6km for the long way around to the summit. The Uptrack starts from the Parking lot and you hang a right after the creek and skin 350m or so up the trail, it’s marked and you’ll hit a fork permitting you to choose a clockwise or counter clockwise route. Keep in mind that it’s a 16km loop and you’ll want to go clockwise for the best results.
Taking the right (clockwise option) press on for approx. 500m and skin up the mountain through the glades, this will give you a chance to scope some lines and get an idea of the snow conditions going up the shoulder. Descents bearing South West and West are usually your best bet. There are some chutes and couloirs oriented North from the summit as well as a drainage bearing North West that can be good in the right conditions. Keep in mind that the summit is very affected by wind.
ROUTE: Blacktooth Bowl
ACCESS: The Parking lot is on Eastern side of the Road, 6.8 Km past the Lyall parking lot or 9.5 km from the Gite coming from the West.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: 3hr
ELEVATION GAIN: 590m/1,935'
ATES RATING: TBD
This tour is a hit or miss and wind events will dictate your options but it can be epic if there is a storm bearing South East, or low wind after a storm. The Access is rather long, approx. 6km for the long way around to the summit. The Uptrack starts from the Parking lot and you hang a right after the creek and skin 350m or so up the trail, it’s marked and you’ll hit a fork permitting you to choose a clockwise or counter clockwise route. Keep in mind that it’s a 16km loop and you’ll want to go clockwise for the best results.
Taking the right (clockwise option) press on for approx. 500m and skin up the mountain through the glades, this will give you a chance to scope some lines and get an idea of the snow conditions going up the shoulder. Descents bearing South West and West are usually your best bet. There are some chutes and couloirs oriented North from the summit as well as a drainage bearing North West that can be good in the right conditions. Keep in mind that the summit is very affected by wind.
ROUTE: North Bowls
ACCESS: The Parking lot is on Eastern side of the Road, 6.8 Km past the Lyall parking lot or 9.5 km from the Gite coming from the West.
MAP: 022b16 Parc de La Gaspesie
TIME: 3hr
ELEVATION GAIN: 590m/1,935'
ATES RATING: TBD
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